When Olivier Rouesting took over from Christoher Decarin in 2011 the heads of the fashion elite did a full 360. Not only was he an unknown designer, he also had some pretty different ideas to his predecessor. Rouesting wasn’t interested in the rock star image, the flamboyant campaigns, instead he stripped it back to basics, bringing in finer aspects of French couture and delicate Asian touches. And it seems this is still working perfectly for the brand, whose AW14 collection was revealed on Paris Fashion Weeks runway yesterday.
With Justin Timberlake’s sultry vocals oozing out of the speakers, models such as Rosie Huntington Whitely and Jordan Dunn strutted the runway in beautifully bizarre ensembles of khaki leather and voluptuous tangerine furs. Think army, meets street style, meets Paris chic.
Khaki and monochrome were a consistent theme, but Rouesting mixed it up with unexpected hints of vibrant yellow, and chunky roping paired with silky cargo pants. Models bared minimal flesh, instead they were swathed in panels of thick, bold leather interlocked with fierce looking chain and metal looping. Tall neck pieces and wrist cuffs added a distinctly elegant look to the collection, well placed amongst the sharp shoulders and pleated peplum waists.
The fur bombers were notably the most interesting pieces of the collection, the contrast of sumptuosly soft furs juxta positioned with strong, stern sillohettes was faultless, and the striking colours were even more intriguing. According to Rouesting ‘Freedom’ was the message, and his entourage of prowling, tigress models certainly embodied that vision, even getting the approval of Rihanna who tweeted her approval from back stage. Rouesting has certainly refined the brand, and we wait in anticipation for his next move!