Today, March 5th, was a pivotal moment in Louis Vuitton’s history. With speculation since Marc Jacobs’ departure last season, all eyes were eagerly wondering what Nicholas Ghesquière would bring to the table as new Creative Director. This morning, on the seats inside the grand Louvre, lay envelopes holding a touching letter typed out by Nicholas prior to his debut collection for Louis Vuitton. It encompassed his overwhelming emotions; excitement, anticipation and acted as a thank you note for this collection; making it clear that this was going to be a new look for Louis Vuitton.
“I salute the work of Marc Jacobs, whose legacy I wholeheartedly hope to honour. And I thank you for being here to share this moment with me. Thanks to all of you who have helped me to tell this new story and who make Louis Vuitton what it is, and especially those who work with me. Thanks to everyone who is here on this day, this morning. Right now.”
It was a collection heavily driven by the combination of luxe textures and delicate prints. Keeping things simply French in a palette of black, brown and nude, we were spoilt by volumes of leather, silk and tweed placed side by side. Louis Vuitton’s infamous sex appeal that has long been visible within previous collections, has been recreated in leather for AW14, with A-line rain macs, cropped jackets, knee high patent boots, high waisted trousers, skirts and dresses draping the models.
The leather A-line 60’s style mac was the piece of the collection. In black mock croc-skin, patchwork tan, with fur collars or belted at the waist, this was the statement coat of the season. Layered over knitted woolen mini dresses with oversized roll necks and knee high patent boots, Nicholas provided us with a luxurious layering of textures within the fabrics; a realistic vision to the fore-coming cold season ahead.
Black high-waisted patent trousers and patchwork woolen jodhpurs were cinched at the waist with wide leather wrap belts, teamed with chic wraparound camel blouses and miniature square camera style box handbags.
A retro, sporty, vibe was felt alongside a folklore look. Dresses were given zip up bomber style jackets in shades of racy shades of blue and white knitted tennis dresses with oversized sunglasses.
Modest length A-line skirts in leather and printed silks, with asymmetrical patches of tweed, were seen with super-low, cleavage busting leather-look tops. Tying the two fabrics and pieces together with a wraparound belt, Nicholas gave the pieces layers of texture and colour. Tweed jackets and blouses in shades of grey, nude and salmon hues kept the look very French, whilst the zip and leather details to the tweed pieces brought it forward into Nicholas’ new idea of the modern Louis Vuitton woman. A woman who walks the finale to Beyonce on the runway embracing change, wearing it with as much sassiness as her knee high patent leather boots.