Raf Simons is synonymous for constantly being ahead of time with his futuristic collections, never one to look back and forever taking Dior to the next level. However, his latest couture collection for Fall 2014 doesn’t just look back to one decade, or a specific period of time, but instead acts out a historic timeline beautifully across centuries past and forward into those to come. Combining the past and the future harmoniously, never making one look dated or too futuristic, simply allowing them to nestle into each other as one. The setting was a huge circular platform for the models to emerge onto. Surrounded by thousands of orchids displayed from floor to the ceiling, Sonic Youth echoed throughout and we begin our journey through time..
Opening the show we are graced with extravagant embroidered hourglass silhouettes in Marie Antoinette style dresses. Tiny waists are magnified by the sculpted full skirts, exemplifying the hips and defining a womanly figure. Space age jumpsuits follow in powdery shades of grey, pastel green and pink, loose fitting with a thick waist band pulling in a defined waist.
Heavily beaded and golden embroidered Edwardian court jackets are next in line in classic black, red and alternatively baby blue and pink. Simon’s layers them simply over a plain knit with a striking effect. No longer are the jackets looking achingly heavy and masculine, but delicate, light and feminine.
Taking us back to the 20th century with 1920’s drop waist silhouettes, beaded shift dresses dazzles us, sparkling to the knee in black and white. Luxurious court jackets in wool, velvet and astrakhan extend the shoulders with exaggerated collars over a wooly knit and trousers, they showcase a luxurious simplicity now offered with couture.