Karl Lagerfeld always makes his collection the most anticipated show, whether it be using Kendall Jenner to model, building his own Chanel supermarket and using it as a runway space or placing the most desirable on the frow – it was Jared Leto. This time there was a sense of grounding; no fancy props or extravagant sets, just two magnificent fireplaces either side of the runway with digital flames burning bright for the models to emerge from and cross paths across a giant court like catwalk. Influenced by Parisian architect Le Corbusier and his modern approach to design, Lagerfeld looked to concrete as his inspiration and base of the collection. An unlikely material for a couture collection, however the structure and detail in the finished pieces demonstrated the need for simple materials to create wonderful masterpieces.
Continuing with the idea of working from the foundations up, breech-like shorts were visible underneath everything; coats over shorts, dresses over shorts, skirts over shorts. No longer a frumpy garment, Lagerfeld transformed them into sparkling additions to each garment, daintily peeking beneath, matching ever so perfectly with beading and sequins. Simple flat Roman sandals tied around the ankle, allowed the sculpture and structure of the clothes to be the focal point, the models gliding with ease across the court. Messy, short quiffs, styled by Sam McKnight, gave an edge to the immaculate gowns and suits in an anti fashion nature.
Providing a veritable mix of clothing for every occasion; classic tweed two piece suits, Baroque cocktail dresses blossoming with ostrich feathers and completing the collection with a bridal gown. Closing the show with a stream of chalk-white gowns, fluid yet moulded, whether heavily embroidered or with a minimal amount of silver and gold across the neckline, each was as breath taking as the next. Gowns were buttoned all the way down playing on the Baroque influence, ending with the icing on the cake finale bridal gown. The first designed in the collection, worn by a glowing, six month pregnant Ashley Goode, she elegantly glided across the catwalk on the arm of Lagerfeld, as if greeting the people of the court before taking her nuptials, completed by a grand beaded train cascading far behind her.